Free Crochet Pattern: Baby Pegasus or winged Unicorn Amigurumi

I did not really plan to publish a pattern for the little sidekick I made for my entry to last years amigurumi design contest, but then, some of you asked me how to do the little baby Pegasus. Some others searched via Google for a Pegasus pattern. Of course I am very happy to see, that you really liked the little fellow. So here finally comes a pattern, which you can also use for doing a winged Unicorn. Have fun!

Material:

About 50g yarn in one colour (I used a lightweight cotton yarn in blue)

Little bits of yarn (25-30g should do) in a second colour (I used white)

Soft filling

8mm safety eyes (Attention: When crocheting for very little children it might be more secure to stitch the eyes rather than using safety eyes – anyhow, it is always safest to watch your child carefully when it plays with selfmade toys)

Hook size 2.5

Gauge: 3sc x 3rows = 1 x 1cm (However, gauge is not that important. If you want your unicorn to be a bit bigger, just take bigger yarn and hook, if you want it to be smaller, take lighter material)

Abbreviations used:

ch = chain

sc = single crochet

inc = increase

dec = decrease

Head:

1. Round: ch 9

2. Round: 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in the last ch, sc 6 on the other side of the chain, inc (18 sc)

3. Round: inc, 6 sc, inc 3, 6 sc, inc 2 (24 sc)

4. – 7. Round: 24 sc

8. Round: inc 10, 14 sc (34 sc)

9. Round: 5 sc, inc 8, 21 sc (42 sc)

10. – 16. Round: 42 sc

If you want to use safety eyes, now is the time to insert them between rounds 9 and 10. Then fill the front part of the head with soft filling.

17. Round: [sc 5, dec] 6 (36 sc)

5. & 6. [sc 4, dec] 6 (30 sc)

Fill in a bit more soft stuffing

19. Round: [sc 3, dec] 6 (24 sc)

20. Round: [sc 2, dec] 6 (18 sc)

Stuff more if needed

21. Round: [sc, dec] 6 (12 sc)

22. Round: dec 6 (6 sc)

Cut yarn and sew up the ends

Body

1. Round: 16 sc – crochet them in a square directly to the downside of the head. Do 4 sc in line, then change direction by 90°, do 4 sc again and so forth. Then sew up the beginning of the yarn. The first row should lie between rows 9 and 10 on the downside of the head.

2. & 3. Round: 16 sc

4. Round: [sc 3, inc] 4x (20 sc)

5. Round: sc around except: inc 4 at the back and [inc, sc, inc] at the front (depending on where you started with the neck, this may vary) come out with 26 sc

6. Round: sc around except: [inc, sc, inc, sc, inc] at the back (29 sc)

7. Round: sc around except: [inc, sc, inc, sc, inc] at the back (32 sc)

8. Round: sc around except: [inc, sc 2, inc, sc 2, inc] at the back (35 sc)

Start stuffing

9. Round: sc around except: [inc, sc 3, inc, sc 3, inc] at the back (38 sc)

10. Round: sc around except: [inc, sc 4, inc, sc 4, inc] at the back and dec in the middle of the front part (40 sc)

11. Round: sc around except: [inc, sc 5, inc, sc 5, inc] at the back and dec in the middle of the front part (42 sc)

12. Round: sc around except: [inc, sc 6, inc, sc 6, inc] at the back and dec in the middle of the front part (44 sc)

13. Round: sc around except: dec 4 in the middle of the front part (40 FM)

14. Round: sc around except: dec 4 in the middle of the front part (36 sc)

15. Round: sc around except: dec 4 in the middle of the front part (32 sc)

16. Round: sc around except: dec 4 in the middle of the front part (28 sc)

17. Round: sc around except: dec 4 in the middle of the front part (24 sc)

Stuff

18. Round: [sc 4, dec] 4x (20 sc)

19. Round: [sc 3, dec] 4x (16 sc)

Stuff (as the head of the unicorn is relatively big, you should stuff the body tightly, if you want your unicorn to be able to stand)

20. Round: [sc 2, dec] 4x (12 sc)

21. Round: dec 6 (6 sc)

Cut yarn and sew up the ends

Legs (4 x)

1. Round: 12 sc in the first colour (for me it’s orange) – crochet them directly to the body as you did with the neck. Then sew up the beginning of the yarn. I actually start with the right front leg (from my perspective). I crochet a chain stitch around round 15 of the body and follow the middle line (wich is formed by the decreases of the body) to the front (3 sc), I then follow the line formed by the rounds of the body for a few stitches and do a slight bow to come back to round 15 (6 sc), I do the last 3 sc to meet the first one (not the ch) as you can see in the picture below:

2. – 4. Round: 12 sc (As you may see in the biggest picture, it is crucial for round 2 to do the first sc into the first sc (not the ch) of the 1st round. In any case you should have 12 sc in the end)

5. Round: 12 sc in the second colour (I took pink)

6. Round: sc around except inc 2 in the front middle (14 sc)

7. Round: sc around except inc 2 in the front middle (16 sc)

8. Round: 16 sc

Stuff

9. Round: [sc 2, dec] 4x (12 sc)

Stuff

10. Round: [sc, dec] 4x (8 sc)

11. Round: dec 4 (4 sc)

Cut yarn and sew up the end. Try to pull the yarn inside until you have a nearly flat bottom of the foot.

For the second leg, I start with the chain directly at the first leg and then crochet 3 sc to the left. I then follow the round line of the body to the front until the 9th sc meets the front line of the first leg. Then, there are three sc left to meet the first one and close the circle. Again, it is important to find the 1st sc for the second round.

The back legs are made in the same way: I start with the right one directly beneath the knot which closes the body. I crochet the first three sc over the knot to make it invisible. The last three sc of the second back leg are also crocheted over the knot.

Video-Tutorial on how to do head, body and legs:

Horn (optional):

1. Round: 8 sc – crochet them directly to the front of the head (as you know by now, you will have a square with 2 sc at each side)

2. Round: 8 sc

3. Round: sc 6, dec (7 sc)

4. Round: sc 2, dec, sc 3 (6 sc)

5. Round: dec, sc 4 (5 sc)

6. Round: sc 2, dec, sc (4 sc)

7. Round: dec 2 (2 sc)

Cut the yarn and sew up the ends

Ears (2x)

1. Row: crochet 4 single crochets directly to the head, chain and turn

2. Row: 4 single crochets (no chain), turn

3. Row: 3 single crochets, chain, turn

4. Row: single crochet, decrease

5. Row: single crochet

Cut yarn an sew up the end.

Wings

1. R: do 8 chain stitches and fasten them with a sling stitch in order to form a ring
2. – 3. R: 8 sc
4. R: 2 sc, 3 sc into the next 2 stitches, 2 sc, 2 dec (11 sc)
5. R: 4 sc, 3 sc into the next 2 stitches, 3 sc, 2 dec (14 sc)
6. R: 5 sc, 3 sc into the next 2 stitches, 5 sc, 2 dec (17 sc)
7. R: 2 dec, 15 sc (16 sc)
8. R: 2 dec, 14 sc (15 sc)
9. R:2 dec, 13 sc (14 sc)
10. R: [5 sc, dec] 2 x (12 sc)
11. R: [4 sc, dec] 2 x (10 sc)
12. R: [3 sc, dec] 2 x (8 sc)
13. R: [2 sc, dec] 2 x (6 sc)
14. R: [sc, dec] 2 x (4 sc)

Cut yarn and sew up the end. Form pipe cleaner into the same shape as the wing and insert it. Then sew the wing to the body and do the second one in the same way.

Mane and tail

For the mane cut 16-32 (according to the size of your amigurumi) peaces of white cotton dk yarn, reaching from the top of the head to the foot and back again. For the tail cut 8 peaces, reaching from the back to the hoove and back.

Pull the 16-32 yarn ends through 16 stitches one beneath the other starting between the ears in the following way: Pull the middle of the yarn through the single crochets of the head, then pull the two ends through the loop (example pictures showing another crochet work which has more contrasting colors).

For the tail pull the 8 peaces of yarn through 7 stitches in three rows: first row with 2 yarn ends, second with three and third with 2 yarn ends (see example picture). Enhance the tail were ever you think it’s needed by pulling more yarn ends through the holes between the rows.

In order to do the hair of your horse use a small comb to brush out the yarn.

Cut the mane in a slight slant where you best like it. When you use yarn you have already crocheted with you will get a nice wavy effect.

Cut the tail in one line with the legs so that it will just touch the ground when the horse is standing.

Have fun crocheting!

You may sell any product made with the help of this pattern, but please don’t copy and share it. You may of course link it to your blog or social media. When selling products you made from it or linking it, please name this blog as source. Apart from that, I will be more than happy to see your results on my facebook-page,or if you tag me (@Flausch_Einhorn) on Twitter or Instagram.